The Best White Tee
Some things can't be upgraded
Over the last year, I have found myself hyper focused on purchasing the best version of each of the clothing items I own. I’m at a point where I know what I like and fits me best, so why not invest.
I traded in the IRAK x adidas Sambas I have worn past the point of no return for a pair of Margiela army trainers. I don’t care that there is a huge population of insufferable people who frequent these sneakers - they are an elevated classic.
I donated the non-vintage Levi’s 501 90’s straight leg jeans I’ve had since college and treated myself to a pair of The Row straight leg jeans that I fell in love with during my short stint as an un-paid textile intern for the brand.
I even threw away the The North Face backpack that had gotten me through middle school, high school, and college, and replaced it with my holy grail backpack: a 20L Visvim backpack made with Cordura and lambskin.
But the one piece of clothing that I have not been able to upgrade is…my white tee.
I have been a loyalist to the Kirkland Signature White Tee for almost a decade. Yes, the white tee you can find in Costco next to where they sell overstock deck furniture is something I wear almost every day.
Everything about the tee is perfect: the neck line, the length, the chest width, and most importantly - how it looks with wear.
But like everything else, during my closet purge I was certain that there was a more expensive white tee that was even better. So, I did some research online, asked my friends, and soon enough, I ordered a handful of new white tees to see which would replace my beloved Kirkland white tee.
In the end of my search, I ordered white tees from LA Apparel, Bayside, Uniqlo, and Whitesville (yes, the other t-shirt Carmie wears in The Bear. Not the Merz B. Schwanen one.) Each different from one another, but all were under $50 a shirt and replaceable.
For the next 6-8 months, I wore each of the new white tees religiously. Each style got at minimum 30 wears and half as many washes. Now, I have some clearly formed opinions.
LA Apparel has a great weight and cut - but the neckline ages terribly. It scrunches up like a piece of bacon and almost needs to be ironed it you want to wear it outside.
Bayside and Uniqlo surprised me the most - they both have a great weight to them and retain their shape. I also love the boxiness of them, as they do not shrink much. My main issue with both of them is they really grey out with age and start to look ratty the more you wash them.
The biggest disappointment of them all was Whitesville. My friend who worked at a shop that carried them vouched that they were the best white tees on the market, and based off of the information I had at the time I purchased - I believed him. They are made in Japan, they got clout from The Bear, and they are made in Japan (this phrase always makes things sound better than they actually are).
Surely a t-shirt made by craftsmen in Japan would be the best - but no. Not even close.
First off, the sizing for Whitesville is not for the Western world. I wear a Medium to Large in most items and for Whitesville I am a XXL. That isn’t right no matter how you slice it.
Next, they cannot be washed like a normal white tee should. I washed these Whitesville tees the same as my Kirklands, Baysides, and Uniqlos and - they shrunk badly. Could I have them washed in a gentle cold cycle and flat dry them to reduce the shrinking? Sure. But for a white tee - laundering should be low effort, not a process.
Lastly, the construction is not good. The neck and opening at the bottom of the shirt twist, turn, and lose all shape. For white tees that are around $90 a pack in the US - that’s insane.
Maybe there are some pieces of clothing that are not meant to be upgraded for something more expensive or made with better materials or even made in Japan. Some items are perfect as they are, regardless of being sold at Costco next to trampolines and T-Bone steaks.